Accessories for Kayak Fishing

A drift chute can turn an otherwise frustrating day into a successful fishing trip. When the winds are blowing too fast for a good drift then the chute can be deployed to slow your kayak down, allowing you time to present your baits the way you want. Another way to use this chute is to catch tidal movement to propel your boat on a drift. If the winds aren't moving you but a tidal change is significant enough then the current can fill the chute and move your kayak along.

A drift chute is typically tied to a short length of nylon rope or a shock cord between 2 and 6 feet long and attached to the kayak with a caribiner or clip. A trolley system can be easily created to position the drift chute anywhere along the side of your kayak. This is basically a large loop of line that is run through pad eyes and then is knotted where the chute will attach with a clip. A cleat is then used to tie off the rope to hold it's position. This allows you to position the chute at the rear of the kayak to point your nose down current or downwind, in the center of the kayak for a perpendicular drift or near the front to put the nose up current or upwind. $20-$40 depending size and material in the chute.

An anchor is a must-have element for fresh water fishing in the kayak. The ability hold position will make or break a day of large mouth bass fishing and the anchor is your best bet. Kayak anchors are typically small collapsible styles as shown here or the rounded mushroom shape. A trolley system like that for a drift chute can be used to position yourself according to the winds or currents. Anchor lines have a tendency to attract your lines and lures so be aware of where it is and how your fish are running.

It isn't advised to drop an anchor in the open ocean and it can turn quite dangerous. If your anchor gets trapped the rising and falling of the swells could pull your kayak over or under the water. Drift chutes are the better choice for the open water - leave your anchor for fresh water and in the bays.

Gaffs are a simple enough concept, a giant hook for sticking in a fish. With a concern for saftey of the kayak angler, though, there are a couple of tips for accurate and safe gaffing.

A gaff handle around 30" or more can be beneficial for creating leverage and speed when striking at a fish. Shorter gaffs will work and some may find them preferable but the extra reach can come in useful for large or stubborn fish. When striking a fish you should come at it from underneath for two reasons. 1. If you're striking at a fish like you're wielding a hatchet you run the risk of missing and then gaffing yourself or your line. 2. When coming from underneath you are lifting the fish out of the water with your strike rather than dragging it across the water. Lifting a fish up into the kayak when it has been gaffed from above will usually allow the fish to fall off the gaff. Lift the gaff up under the fish, strike firmly and continue lifting it up into the kayak where you can secure it with a rope or game clip. A gaff can cost anywhere between $10 and $100

The 12v battery is essential for powering your fish finder. You can wire this provide electricity to your bait tank, lights and compass light as well and a single 12v 7.0 amp hour batter should last all day. More often, though, a 6v battery is used to power bait tanks as the slower flow it creates is kinder to the fish inside. The full power of a 12v can push bait fish into the walls and tire them quickly.

These are sealed lead-acid batteries and a small trickle-charger will keep it powered up between runs. Most places that sell these batteries also have the chargers. Like most rechargeable batteries it's a good idea to completely discharge it once in a while so that it will take a full charge and hold voltage longer. Battery prices vary based on the voltage and amp/hour rating but they'll fall between $15-$25.

A bait tank is essential for the big fish hunters to keep bait (mackerel, sardines or anchovies here in CA) alive and kicking throughout the day. For tournament anglers in the bass world they are used as livewells to keep the bass alive for weighboats. A bait tank or livewell for the kayak consists of 4 main elements. A tank to hold water, a pump to pull water from the ocean/lake in, a battery to power the pump and a discharge vent or drain. Wiring a pump is easy - a simple switch from Radio Shack or West Marine in line with the battery will give you on/off control. Some flexible tubing to route your water from the pump into the tank and the drain can be as simple as a hole in the tank at the desired depth. We have a really great how-to article on building your own bait tank by Chris Fierro - click here to build your own kayak bait tank. Parts to assemble a tank will run between $75-$150.

The low-tech solution to a bait tank is the bait tube. A bait tube can hold up to half a dozen mackerel or sardines and keep them alive for a few hours. A quick set of instructions on assembling a bait tube is located on this link. Bait tubes will run you about $7.